Замена жидкости акпп maverick
Масло в АКПП Ford Maverick
Линейка Ford Maverick имеет многолетнюю историю. С 1970 данную серию автопроизводитель выпускал исключительно для американского рынка. А в 2000 году презентовал второе поколение данного модельного ряда на территории Российской Федерации. Это были полноразмерные внедорожники второго поколения, которые в 2007 году стали основой для Форд Куга. Что же касается автоматической трансмиссии, то данную линейку американский автопроизводитель оснастил четырехступенчатой АКПП, работающей на трансмиссионной жидкости с заводским допуском. Соответственно, выбирая масло АКПП Форд Маверик, автовладелец просто обязан обладать данными о данной спецификации.
Масла в коробку автомат Форд Маверик
Ford Maverick масло в АКПП 4EAT-G/CD4E
Учитывая тот факт, что четырехступенчатые автоматы 4EAT-G и CD4E имеют родство, то и трансмиссионная жидкость, используемая при их обслуживании, имеет идентичную спецификацию WSS-M2C 938-A. Сам американский автопроизводитель рекомендует заливать в данные АКПП масло собственного производства под названием FORD Motorcraft Mercon V. Однако стоит понимать, что данной спецификацией обладают и его аналоги. К примеру Motul Multi ATF или GULF Multi-Vehicle ATF.
| FORD Motorcraft Mercon V
| 5 литров Артикул: XT-5-5QM Средняя цена: 3200 рублей 1 литр Артикул: XT-5-QMC Средняя цена: 650 рублей |
| Motul Multi ATF
| 1 литр Артикул: 103221 Средняя цена: 1500 рублей |
| GULF Multi-Vehicle ATF
| 5 литров Артикул: 5056004124124 Средняя цена: 3300 рублей 1 литр Артикул: 5056004124117 Средняя цена: 450 рублей |
Какое масло заливать в АКПП Форд Маверик 3.0
На линейку Ford Maverick с трехлитровым мотором, в зависимости от года выпуска автомобиля, также устанавливались вышеуказанные автоматы. А именно четырехступенчатые гидромеханические АКПП 4EAT-G и CD4E, описанные выше. Соответственно, смело заливаем в них трансмиссионную жидкость с допуском WSS-M2C 938-A(FORD Motorcraft Mercon V, Redline D6 ATF, RAVENOL Mercon V).
| FORD Motorcraft Mercon V
| 5 литров Артикул: XT-5-5QM Средняя цена: 3200 рублей 1 литр Артикул: XT-5-QMC Средняя цена: 650 рублей |
| RAVENOL Mercon V
| |
| Redline D6 ATF
|
Сколько масла в автомате Ford Maverick
Когда менять масло в АКПП Форд Маверик
Уровень трансмиссионной жидкости в автомате Ford Maverick
Учитывая тот факт, что четырехступенчатые АКПП 4EAT-G и CD4E имеют контрольный масляный щуп, находящийся под капотом автомобиля, то и уровень трансмиссионной жидкости в них измеряется предельно просто:
Проверка уровня масла в АКПП с использованием щупа
Замена масла в АКПП Форд Маверик
Частичная замена масла в автомате Ford Maverick не составит проблем. Ведь для ее реализации будет достаточным:
Замена жидкости акпп maverick
❝ Цитата(Bifchik @ Apr 20 2006, 10:55)
Скажите плиз. Мне в сервисе сказали, что при замене масла в АКПП фильтр не меняется по причине того, что нужно снимать коробку. Т.е. фильтр служит весь срок жизни коробки. Так ли это?
reyser ESCAPE 3L
❝ Цитата(reyser @ Apr 20 2006, 15:16)
Может на мазде по другому, а мне вчера поменяли масло и фильтр.
reyser ESCAPE 3L
❝ Цитата(Bifchik @ Apr 20 2006, 14:21)
❝ Цитата(Bifchik @ Apr 20 2006, 13:17)
Папуся, не совсем понял. Т.е. фильтр менять действительно не надо?
Гоша 1 
❝ Цитата(Папуся @ Apr 20 2006, 22:26)
Гоша 1
❝ Цитата(Гоша 1 @ Apr 21 2006, 22:57)
В АКПП при замене масла меняется фильтр,снимается поддон коробки,ставится новая прокладка.
Izb
❝ Цитата(Izb @ Jun 20 2008, 23:17)
1. Одним словом, фильтр менять не надо?
Фильтр, который внутри, не меняется. Он предназначен для непредвиденных загрязнений, типа кусок шестеренки отвалился. Умельцы ставят перед радиатором охлаждения внешний фильтр, вот он меняется.
Izb
Выдержки из TIS относительно замены масла в АКПП CD4E. Обратите внимание на многократную замену масла и использования специального герметика для пробки.
Add Fluid
CAUTION: Use of any fluid other than that specified could result in transmission malfunction or failure.
Before adding any fluid, be sure that the correct type (ESP-M2C166-H) will be used.
Add transmission fluid through the filler tube in amounts of 0,25 l, each time checking the fill level on the fluid dipstick. Drain automatic transmission fluid if too much is filled.
Fluid Change Drain/Refill
1. Raise the vehicle.
2. Place a suitable container under the transmission drain plug.
Note: If internal damage to the transmission is suspected, drain the fluid through a paper filter. A small amount of abraded clutch particles is a sign of normal wear. If however a larger amount of particles of abraded clutch or metallic pieces are found, then a transmission repair is necessary.
3. Remove the transmission drain plug and drain the transmission fluid.
4. Install the transmission drain plug.
5. Lower the vehicle.
6. Fill the automatic transmission with automatic transmission fluid according to Ford specification ESP-M2C166-H. For further information, refer to the following operation in this section: Specifications
7. Apply the handbrake. Start the engine and run it at idle speed for five minutes while shifting through all shift lever positions. Switch off the engine.
8. Raise the vehicle.
9. Place a suitable container under the transmission drain plug.
10. Remove the transmission drain plug and drain the transmission fluid.
11. After the fluid has been drained, clean the drain plug thread and apply a thin coat of Teflon Sealant meeting Ford specification WSK-M2G350-A2.
12. Install the transmission drain plug.
13. Remove the drain pan, tools and materials and lower the vehicle.
14. Fill the automatic transmission with automatic transmission fluid according to Ford specification ESP-M2C166-H.
15. Start the engine and move the shift lever through all positions. Check the fluid level and top up if necessary.
Ford Maverick 2001
Transmission Fluid Drain and Refill (171150)
Removal
1. Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to For additional information, refer to «Section 100-02»..
2. Place a suitable container under the transaxle drain plug.
3. Note: If an integral problem is suspected, drain the fluid through a paper filter. A small amount of metal or friction particles may be found from normal wear. However, if excessive metal and friction particles are present, internal service will be required.
Remove the transaxle drain plug and drain transmission fluid.
Installation
1. Install the transaxle drain plug.
After the fluid has been drained, clean the drain plug threads and apply a small amount of Pipe Sealant with Teflon ® D8AZ-19554-A or XW7Z-19554-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSK-M2G350-A2.
2. Lower the vehicle
3. Add 3.7 liters (3.9 quarts) of MERCON ® Multi-Purpose (ATF) Transmission Fluid XT-2-QDX or equivalent meeting MERCON® specification.
4. Start the engine and run through all gears for a total of five minutes at idle. Turn off the engine.
5. Repeat the previous steps to help flush fluid from the torque converter.
Izb
General maintaince of the CD4E is very simple. Have the tranny flushed every 30,000 miles. You can take your car to most full service lube shops to have this service done, but others do this themselves. Only real difference is that a lube shop would be able to perform a power flush, which can force contaminates out of the system. Some simple drain and fill the unit every 15,000, but others feel that this process really does not do enough good to justify. Opinions vary, so do what you think is best.
To perform a tranny flush yourself, follow this little «How-To» by RoadRunner, Transmission Forum Moderator at CEG.
The filter, in the CD4E, is not a serviceable item. By this, I mean that the filter cannot be changed without actually disassembling the transmission. Don’t go and get all upset about this! The filter actually works pretty good. The only known problem with the filter, was found back in `98, I believe. It was redesigned by Flitrek to address a fluid flow issue during extreme useage. In other words, when you would drive your car like a mad man like most of us do on weekends, the fluid was not able to flow properly through the filter. This lead to premature failures of the coast & direct clutches.
Since we are on the topic of ATF, the CD4E is designed to use Mercon. Not Mercon V! This holds across all models years. If you want, you can use synthetic based fluids such as, Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF or Amsoil Synthetic ATF. There are of course others out there and I will let you do all that research. I will let you draw your own conclusion in that area on what is best for your CD4E. Just stay with either Mercon or a synthetic variant and you will be fine. And yes, if you want to slowly change over to a syn, by performing the 4 quart drop procedure, you can.
I would also like to address another topic that often comes up with automatic transmissions, in general, quite a lot. Changing of the fluid period! A lot of people think that you should not change your transmission fluid unless you are having problems. This is about as wrong as you can possibly be. Look! ATF is not some miracle fluid that will not break down. When ATF breaks down, it actually becomes abrasive. If you allow this liquid sand paper, if you will, continue to run through your transmission. it will eat away at everything it comes into contact with. Keep your fluid changed on a regular basis, all those parts will continue to be happy for a long time.
If you have purchased a used car, that you are not sure about the level of care that the previous owner car gave the transmission, I would suggest performing the 4 quart drop routine and not flushing the tranny. «Why?», you ask. «But I thought I was suppose to get all that stuff out, if the fluid was in bad condition. I am confused now!»
Well see here is what happens with old ATF, while still floating around in your tranny. The old fluid flows through the tranny, causing all sorts of damage. One of the main problems is scaring. Scaring is where a piece of grit runs through say, the bore of the valve body. When it reaches the piston or valve, it gets caught between the seal and the bore. As the valve or piston continues to work normally, it is also cutting into the bore. Now, with scaring out of the way As time goes by, this scare will become filled with other particles of grit and trash. This eventually seals whatever leaks might have been caused by the scaring action. Now! This is just one piece of grit, so imagine thousands if not millions upon millions of different examples of this happening throughout an entire trip! It does not take long for your transmission to become riddled with this damage. Well, here’s the catch. ATF is naturally very good at cleaning. And if you flush your tranny with 12 quarts of new fluid, it is only a matter of miles before all those scares are cleaned out and you have a hydraulic mess on your hands. Valves and pistons will begin to stick or leak. Line pressure will fluctuate wildly. All sorts of problems. It is not unheard of for someone to flush their tranny, that has not taken very good care of it, and soon after flushing it dies.
Замена жидкости акпп maverick
❝ Цитата(Bifchik @ Apr 20 2006, 10:55)
Скажите плиз. Мне в сервисе сказали, что при замене масла в АКПП фильтр не меняется по причине того, что нужно снимать коробку. Т.е. фильтр служит весь срок жизни коробки. Так ли это?
reyser ESCAPE 3L
❝ Цитата(reyser @ Apr 20 2006, 15:16)
Может на мазде по другому, а мне вчера поменяли масло и фильтр.
reyser ESCAPE 3L
❝ Цитата(Bifchik @ Apr 20 2006, 14:21)
❝ Цитата(Bifchik @ Apr 20 2006, 13:17)
Папуся, не совсем понял. Т.е. фильтр менять действительно не надо?
Гоша 1
❝ Цитата(Папуся @ Apr 20 2006, 22:26)
Гоша 1
❝ Цитата(Гоша 1 @ Apr 21 2006, 22:57)
В АКПП при замене масла меняется фильтр,снимается поддон коробки,ставится новая прокладка.
Izb
❝ Цитата(Izb @ Jun 20 2008, 23:17)
1. Одним словом, фильтр менять не надо?
Фильтр, который внутри, не меняется. Он предназначен для непредвиденных загрязнений, типа кусок шестеренки отвалился. Умельцы ставят перед радиатором охлаждения внешний фильтр, вот он меняется.
Izb
Выдержки из TIS относительно замены масла в АКПП CD4E. Обратите внимание на многократную замену масла и использования специального герметика для пробки.
Add Fluid
CAUTION: Use of any fluid other than that specified could result in transmission malfunction or failure.
Before adding any fluid, be sure that the correct type (ESP-M2C166-H) will be used.
Add transmission fluid through the filler tube in amounts of 0,25 l, each time checking the fill level on the fluid dipstick. Drain automatic transmission fluid if too much is filled.
Fluid Change Drain/Refill
1. Raise the vehicle.
2. Place a suitable container under the transmission drain plug.
Note: If internal damage to the transmission is suspected, drain the fluid through a paper filter. A small amount of abraded clutch particles is a sign of normal wear. If however a larger amount of particles of abraded clutch or metallic pieces are found, then a transmission repair is necessary.
3. Remove the transmission drain plug and drain the transmission fluid.
4. Install the transmission drain plug.
5. Lower the vehicle.
6. Fill the automatic transmission with automatic transmission fluid according to Ford specification ESP-M2C166-H. For further information, refer to the following operation in this section: Specifications
7. Apply the handbrake. Start the engine and run it at idle speed for five minutes while shifting through all shift lever positions. Switch off the engine.
8. Raise the vehicle.
9. Place a suitable container under the transmission drain plug.
10. Remove the transmission drain plug and drain the transmission fluid.
11. After the fluid has been drained, clean the drain plug thread and apply a thin coat of Teflon Sealant meeting Ford specification WSK-M2G350-A2.
12. Install the transmission drain plug.
13. Remove the drain pan, tools and materials and lower the vehicle.
14. Fill the automatic transmission with automatic transmission fluid according to Ford specification ESP-M2C166-H.
15. Start the engine and move the shift lever through all positions. Check the fluid level and top up if necessary.
Ford Maverick 2001
Transmission Fluid Drain and Refill (171150)
Removal
1. Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to For additional information, refer to «Section 100-02»..
2. Place a suitable container under the transaxle drain plug.
3. Note: If an integral problem is suspected, drain the fluid through a paper filter. A small amount of metal or friction particles may be found from normal wear. However, if excessive metal and friction particles are present, internal service will be required.
Remove the transaxle drain plug and drain transmission fluid.
Installation
1. Install the transaxle drain plug.
After the fluid has been drained, clean the drain plug threads and apply a small amount of Pipe Sealant with Teflon ® D8AZ-19554-A or XW7Z-19554-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSK-M2G350-A2.
2. Lower the vehicle
3. Add 3.7 liters (3.9 quarts) of MERCON ® Multi-Purpose (ATF) Transmission Fluid XT-2-QDX or equivalent meeting MERCON® specification.
4. Start the engine and run through all gears for a total of five minutes at idle. Turn off the engine.
5. Repeat the previous steps to help flush fluid from the torque converter.
Izb
General maintaince of the CD4E is very simple. Have the tranny flushed every 30,000 miles. You can take your car to most full service lube shops to have this service done, but others do this themselves. Only real difference is that a lube shop would be able to perform a power flush, which can force contaminates out of the system. Some simple drain and fill the unit every 15,000, but others feel that this process really does not do enough good to justify. Opinions vary, so do what you think is best.
To perform a tranny flush yourself, follow this little «How-To» by RoadRunner, Transmission Forum Moderator at CEG.
The filter, in the CD4E, is not a serviceable item. By this, I mean that the filter cannot be changed without actually disassembling the transmission. Don’t go and get all upset about this! The filter actually works pretty good. The only known problem with the filter, was found back in `98, I believe. It was redesigned by Flitrek to address a fluid flow issue during extreme useage. In other words, when you would drive your car like a mad man like most of us do on weekends, the fluid was not able to flow properly through the filter. This lead to premature failures of the coast & direct clutches.
Since we are on the topic of ATF, the CD4E is designed to use Mercon. Not Mercon V! This holds across all models years. If you want, you can use synthetic based fluids such as, Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF or Amsoil Synthetic ATF. There are of course others out there and I will let you do all that research. I will let you draw your own conclusion in that area on what is best for your CD4E. Just stay with either Mercon or a synthetic variant and you will be fine. And yes, if you want to slowly change over to a syn, by performing the 4 quart drop procedure, you can.
I would also like to address another topic that often comes up with automatic transmissions, in general, quite a lot. Changing of the fluid period! A lot of people think that you should not change your transmission fluid unless you are having problems. This is about as wrong as you can possibly be. Look! ATF is not some miracle fluid that will not break down. When ATF breaks down, it actually becomes abrasive. If you allow this liquid sand paper, if you will, continue to run through your transmission. it will eat away at everything it comes into contact with. Keep your fluid changed on a regular basis, all those parts will continue to be happy for a long time.
If you have purchased a used car, that you are not sure about the level of care that the previous owner car gave the transmission, I would suggest performing the 4 quart drop routine and not flushing the tranny. «Why?», you ask. «But I thought I was suppose to get all that stuff out, if the fluid was in bad condition. I am confused now!»
Well see here is what happens with old ATF, while still floating around in your tranny. The old fluid flows through the tranny, causing all sorts of damage. One of the main problems is scaring. Scaring is where a piece of grit runs through say, the bore of the valve body. When it reaches the piston or valve, it gets caught between the seal and the bore. As the valve or piston continues to work normally, it is also cutting into the bore. Now, with scaring out of the way As time goes by, this scare will become filled with other particles of grit and trash. This eventually seals whatever leaks might have been caused by the scaring action. Now! This is just one piece of grit, so imagine thousands if not millions upon millions of different examples of this happening throughout an entire trip! It does not take long for your transmission to become riddled with this damage. Well, here’s the catch. ATF is naturally very good at cleaning. And if you flush your tranny with 12 quarts of new fluid, it is only a matter of miles before all those scares are cleaned out and you have a hydraulic mess on your hands. Valves and pistons will begin to stick or leak. Line pressure will fluctuate wildly. All sorts of problems. It is not unheard of for someone to flush their tranny, that has not taken very good care of it, and soon after flushing it dies.
Замена жидкости акпп maverick
❝ Цитата(Bifchik @ Apr 20 2006, 10:55)
Скажите плиз. Мне в сервисе сказали, что при замене масла в АКПП фильтр не меняется по причине того, что нужно снимать коробку. Т.е. фильтр служит весь срок жизни коробки. Так ли это?
reyser ESCAPE 3L
❝ Цитата(reyser @ Apr 20 2006, 15:16)
Может на мазде по другому, а мне вчера поменяли масло и фильтр.
reyser ESCAPE 3L
❝ Цитата(Bifchik @ Apr 20 2006, 14:21)
❝ Цитата(Bifchik @ Apr 20 2006, 13:17)
Папуся, не совсем понял. Т.е. фильтр менять действительно не надо?
Гоша 1
❝ Цитата(Папуся @ Apr 20 2006, 22:26)
Гоша 1
❝ Цитата(Гоша 1 @ Apr 21 2006, 22:57)
В АКПП при замене масла меняется фильтр,снимается поддон коробки,ставится новая прокладка.
Izb
❝ Цитата(Izb @ Jun 20 2008, 23:17)
1. Одним словом, фильтр менять не надо?
Фильтр, который внутри, не меняется. Он предназначен для непредвиденных загрязнений, типа кусок шестеренки отвалился. Умельцы ставят перед радиатором охлаждения внешний фильтр, вот он меняется.
Izb
Выдержки из TIS относительно замены масла в АКПП CD4E. Обратите внимание на многократную замену масла и использования специального герметика для пробки.
Add Fluid
CAUTION: Use of any fluid other than that specified could result in transmission malfunction or failure.
Before adding any fluid, be sure that the correct type (ESP-M2C166-H) will be used.
Add transmission fluid through the filler tube in amounts of 0,25 l, each time checking the fill level on the fluid dipstick. Drain automatic transmission fluid if too much is filled.
Fluid Change Drain/Refill
1. Raise the vehicle.
2. Place a suitable container under the transmission drain plug.
Note: If internal damage to the transmission is suspected, drain the fluid through a paper filter. A small amount of abraded clutch particles is a sign of normal wear. If however a larger amount of particles of abraded clutch or metallic pieces are found, then a transmission repair is necessary.
3. Remove the transmission drain plug and drain the transmission fluid.
4. Install the transmission drain plug.
5. Lower the vehicle.
6. Fill the automatic transmission with automatic transmission fluid according to Ford specification ESP-M2C166-H. For further information, refer to the following operation in this section: Specifications
7. Apply the handbrake. Start the engine and run it at idle speed for five minutes while shifting through all shift lever positions. Switch off the engine.
8. Raise the vehicle.
9. Place a suitable container under the transmission drain plug.
10. Remove the transmission drain plug and drain the transmission fluid.
11. After the fluid has been drained, clean the drain plug thread and apply a thin coat of Teflon Sealant meeting Ford specification WSK-M2G350-A2.
12. Install the transmission drain plug.
13. Remove the drain pan, tools and materials and lower the vehicle.
14. Fill the automatic transmission with automatic transmission fluid according to Ford specification ESP-M2C166-H.
15. Start the engine and move the shift lever through all positions. Check the fluid level and top up if necessary.
Ford Maverick 2001
Transmission Fluid Drain and Refill (171150)
Removal
1. Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to For additional information, refer to «Section 100-02»..
2. Place a suitable container under the transaxle drain plug.
3. Note: If an integral problem is suspected, drain the fluid through a paper filter. A small amount of metal or friction particles may be found from normal wear. However, if excessive metal and friction particles are present, internal service will be required.
Remove the transaxle drain plug and drain transmission fluid.
Installation
1. Install the transaxle drain plug.
After the fluid has been drained, clean the drain plug threads and apply a small amount of Pipe Sealant with Teflon ® D8AZ-19554-A or XW7Z-19554-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSK-M2G350-A2.
2. Lower the vehicle
3. Add 3.7 liters (3.9 quarts) of MERCON ® Multi-Purpose (ATF) Transmission Fluid XT-2-QDX or equivalent meeting MERCON® specification.
4. Start the engine and run through all gears for a total of five minutes at idle. Turn off the engine.
5. Repeat the previous steps to help flush fluid from the torque converter.
Izb
General maintaince of the CD4E is very simple. Have the tranny flushed every 30,000 miles. You can take your car to most full service lube shops to have this service done, but others do this themselves. Only real difference is that a lube shop would be able to perform a power flush, which can force contaminates out of the system. Some simple drain and fill the unit every 15,000, but others feel that this process really does not do enough good to justify. Opinions vary, so do what you think is best.
To perform a tranny flush yourself, follow this little «How-To» by RoadRunner, Transmission Forum Moderator at CEG.
The filter, in the CD4E, is not a serviceable item. By this, I mean that the filter cannot be changed without actually disassembling the transmission. Don’t go and get all upset about this! The filter actually works pretty good. The only known problem with the filter, was found back in `98, I believe. It was redesigned by Flitrek to address a fluid flow issue during extreme useage. In other words, when you would drive your car like a mad man like most of us do on weekends, the fluid was not able to flow properly through the filter. This lead to premature failures of the coast & direct clutches.
Since we are on the topic of ATF, the CD4E is designed to use Mercon. Not Mercon V! This holds across all models years. If you want, you can use synthetic based fluids such as, Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF or Amsoil Synthetic ATF. There are of course others out there and I will let you do all that research. I will let you draw your own conclusion in that area on what is best for your CD4E. Just stay with either Mercon or a synthetic variant and you will be fine. And yes, if you want to slowly change over to a syn, by performing the 4 quart drop procedure, you can.
I would also like to address another topic that often comes up with automatic transmissions, in general, quite a lot. Changing of the fluid period! A lot of people think that you should not change your transmission fluid unless you are having problems. This is about as wrong as you can possibly be. Look! ATF is not some miracle fluid that will not break down. When ATF breaks down, it actually becomes abrasive. If you allow this liquid sand paper, if you will, continue to run through your transmission. it will eat away at everything it comes into contact with. Keep your fluid changed on a regular basis, all those parts will continue to be happy for a long time.
If you have purchased a used car, that you are not sure about the level of care that the previous owner car gave the transmission, I would suggest performing the 4 quart drop routine and not flushing the tranny. «Why?», you ask. «But I thought I was suppose to get all that stuff out, if the fluid was in bad condition. I am confused now!»
Well see here is what happens with old ATF, while still floating around in your tranny. The old fluid flows through the tranny, causing all sorts of damage. One of the main problems is scaring. Scaring is where a piece of grit runs through say, the bore of the valve body. When it reaches the piston or valve, it gets caught between the seal and the bore. As the valve or piston continues to work normally, it is also cutting into the bore. Now, with scaring out of the way As time goes by, this scare will become filled with other particles of grit and trash. This eventually seals whatever leaks might have been caused by the scaring action. Now! This is just one piece of grit, so imagine thousands if not millions upon millions of different examples of this happening throughout an entire trip! It does not take long for your transmission to become riddled with this damage. Well, here’s the catch. ATF is naturally very good at cleaning. And if you flush your tranny with 12 quarts of new fluid, it is only a matter of miles before all those scares are cleaned out and you have a hydraulic mess on your hands. Valves and pistons will begin to stick or leak. Line pressure will fluctuate wildly. All sorts of problems. It is not unheard of for someone to flush their tranny, that has not taken very good care of it, and soon after flushing it dies.